Iceland Day 11 - James' birthday

Happy Birthday My Love! 

James' birthday is today and we celebrated by cleaning the house and packing. It was a slow and lazy day since we were all worn out and knew that soon our trip would be over and real life would begin again. David and I packed this afternoon while James took Jon to get us all lunch and then took the kids out to a local playground. They have been begging to go to one this entire trip so they were thrilled with the opportunity.

Will reading in the morning

Christian having fun

Christian on a ball swing

Uncle David plays with the kids. He has been amazing!!

After the playground we all went into Selfoss for a birthday dinner. The first restaurant we looked at was full of old people silently eating their meals. Deciding that this was not the place for us we traveled on to the coast in search of a good meal. We have finally found an unimpressive part of Iceland. There are no mountains here, just scrub filled plains with only the occasional horse or sheep. But we found an open restaurant which seemed more welcoming and whose patrons were speaking in normal tones.

Will and Christian playing

They made up their own game and fought in slow motion

Our meal was good but not the best Icelandic fare. We have been spoiled though. Will and Jon ordered the kid's steak and were given lamb. I don't know if it was a mistake on the menu or by the server but we didn't tell the boys what it was until after they had finished their meal. They were both a little shocked and Will said that he'd rather eat cows because lambs are too cute.

Birthday dinner!

Will's lamb

After dinner we stopped for ice cream in Selfoss and had a fantastic experience. Unlike most establishments there was no English at all on the menu and we had to rely on our server to make sense of the flavors for us. I tried some honey ice cream which was really good in small amounts but rather overwhelming as a whole scoop. Jon and Christian had ice cream with candy floss on top so they were in heaven. 

enjoying ice cream

Christian finishes his ice cream

We all loved the ice cream and were only disappointed that we hadn't found this place sooner. The girl who helped us was wonderfully nice and very patient. I have been really impressed with all the Icelanders we've met. Every one of them has been kind and has cheerfully spoken English to us since we can't even attempt to speak a word of Icelandic. (I've tried but my tongue can't do it!)

Ice cream place

Can yo believe we ate here? The hot dogs are good but this sign is too strange!

It is late now and we leave tomorrow. I have really loved our time here and I know that we will come again. I did not expect to love Iceland as much as I do! It is a truly beautiful place.

Goodnight and goodbye until the next trip!

Iceland Day 10 - Glacier

We had a slow start this morning. The lack of darkness and our crazy schedule is catching up to us so we were all tired. (Of course, it could also have been that long hike we were on yesterday.) We slept in and lazed around before finally getting out of the house in the early afternoon. Since it was our penultimate day in Iceland we wanted to do something cool.

Sunrise (at 3:30 am) 

The Eyjafjallajofull glacier

All the boys in front of the glacier

We were on the road for lunch and we tried in vain to find a new restaurant to eat but the area was sparsely populated and the only other place we found had old people quietly eating in a tiny room. We didn't want to bother them so we went to our favorite gas station. This made the kids happy because the gas station had a little cafe in it that served hot dogs and burgers. Iceland hot dogs are really good, even from a gas station, but all the adults were getting tired of this fast food. The boys though loved it and even got to buy their own dessert before we continued on.

Traffic jam in iceland

Silly Christian

Will wants to be a viking

Me and my sons in front of the glacier

We drove down the South coast, past the stunning waterfalls we loved and into the wet and stunning mountains to a glacier on Mt Eyjafjallajokull. Back in 2010 the volcano Eyjafjallajokull (no idea how to say it!) went off covering the nearby area in ash. Now the fields approaching the mountain are covered by miles and miles of lupines.

lupines in front of the mountains

As we drove closer to the mountain the ground became more barren. We parked and began the short walk to the face of the glacier. To walk on top of the glacier we would need to take a tour with an experienced guide but the tours only allowed children over 10. That was fine with us, we were happy just to get close to it. 

James and Christian walk to the glacier

Will's viking pose

The warning sign

It is bigger than it looks

Slowly melting

The glacier was much dirtier than I had expected. I think I was imagining a more impressive sight but it was still really cool to be able to walk up to and touch the glacier. The area wasn't very safe since parts of the glacier would sometimes break off. But we held tight to the kids and didn't get too close. 

glacier peaks

Me and David and the boys

Attack of the viking

David touches the glacier

After the glacier we had planned to visit another waterfall or two but we were all so exhausted that we just went right home. David and I fell asleep in the car and I am grateful that James doesn't get tired while driving! 

Jon catches his puffin

Glacier

Christian loves his puffin

Hanging out at the glacier

David and his nephews

We got home around 8 and took our mid evening nap before dinner. Our schedules are really messed up here, I don't think we've ever gotten used to the time difference. And how could we when it is always light? Anyway, after a late dinner James and the boys climbed into the hot tub to play. The boys found great delight in pretending to be Archimedes and running out of the tub yelling "Eureka!" To their disappointment we made them keep their clothes on.

Boys in the hot tub

Christian's picture of the sun

We had a quiet day today but I am still tired and so I am off to bed. Goodnight!

Iceland Day 9 - Glymur

"If you've done six impossible things this morning, why not round it off with breakfast at Milliways, the Restaurant at the End of the Universe?" This Douglas Adams quote was in my head all day because while I didn't do six impossible things, today was amazing. We climbed through a cave, crossed a swift river on a log bridge, and hiked along steep cliffs and stood between two continents. Sometimes this trip does seem impossibly wonderful.

Two silly boys

Today we tried and failed to wake up early but we still got out of the house by 11. Our goal was to hike to Glymur, Iceland's second tallest waterfall. To get there we drove North on yet another picturesque road. (Does Iceland have any mediocre roads? If so we haven't found them yet.) But the most beautiful sight was the fjord near the end of our journey. We drove almost the whole length of the fjord, just stunned by deep blue waters and towering mountains.

Fjord

Christian shows the way

Jon's picture of the fjord

Deep blue

David enjoys the beautiful view

A red beaked bird also enjoys the view

At the very tip of the fjord is the beginning of the hike to Glymur. As we walked out and back we could always see the beautiful water in the distance. Before we started out though we all put on our hiking boots. I had never had a pair before but they have been indispensable on this trip. We were so blessed to find three pairs of kids hiking boots at a thrift store at home and I was thanking God for them the whole hike.

At the start of the trail

At the beginning of the hike

Christian rests on the trail

Jon's picture of a mountain

David and Will lead the way

Start of the hike with the fjord in the distance

Jon's picture of trees

We had planned to eat when we reached the waterfall but the boys started the hike already hungry. Poor Christian was so tired too that he didn't want to walk at all. About 15 minutes in though we came to the edge of a gorge and that is where the fun started. The trail took us down into a small cave which brought us down the gorge and opened up onto a swiftly flowing river. At the river the boys took turns drinking and filling our water bottles. One of the many cool things about Iceland is that you can drink the river water and it is so cool and delicious.

James in the cave

David at the cave exit

Will leaving the cave

Cave exit

Christian and Daddy leaving the cave

Will by the cave

View of the cave from the river

Christian fills his water bottle

Relaxing by the water

After the cave we walked along the river's edge until we came to the next adventure, crossing the river on a log. We stopped for a bit to assess the situation and figure out how we were going to get the kids across. Christian is fiercely independent and wanted to make the crossing on his own. One hiker heard him fussing and asked if he was afraid. But we laughed and explained that we had the opposite problem! 

David crossing the river

Christian is very brave

Christian did consent to holding hands while we crossed and we made the journey in pairs. As I watched James and Christian cross I thought of all his grandmothers who would probably panic if they could see him! But don't worry, he made it over safely. He is such a little boy on a very big adventure but he is more than equal to the task.

David and Will cross

Christian and Daddy cross

I had Jon but I ended up letting go of his hand because I was more likely to pull him in than I was to save him from falling. The boys are all steady on their feet and went across quickly and easily. I was very wobbly though and thought a couple times that I would end up all wet. Thankfully we all made it over without incident.

Me and Jon cross the river

Jon's picture of a small mountain stream

Right after the river the path began a steep and slippery climb. Again we had the kids in pairs, one hand holding one of theirs and the other grasping the rope that led up the cliff side. Christian again didn't understand the necessity of holding hands but we were not taking any chances, especially when we were walking along the top of the gorge. 

Will climbs

David and Will lead the way

James and Jon climbing

David ventures out to get the shot

David's picture was worth the risk

After one steep climb we stopped and had our lunch before continuing on. We had planned to save it but the hike was hard for us, although not for David, and we were all hungry. After that we walked along the gorge holding tight to the kids and marveling at the sights before us. Small streams of water poured down into the valley below and reflecting rainbows on the cliff walls. 

Eating lunch

James at lunch

David on another ledge

The river flowing through the canyon

We cold still see the fjord

Jon's picture of  a rainbow waterfall

Up ahead of us Glymur poured down from the cliff into the bottom of the canyon. It was a stunning sight. We took another break with a good view of the water fall and debated what to do next. The trail up ahead looked even steeper and continued along the edge of the cliff to the very top of the waterfall. The kids were all tired and ready to head back and the adults were concerned about the continuing safety of the trail. So we voted to turn around and head back to the car.

Walking along the canyon walls

I am not as brave as David

Glymur and the small waterfalls

James on the trail to Glymur

We saw Glymur but we didn't make it quite as far as I had hoped. Although I am not in great shape and was pretty tired myself I really wanted to make it to the top. But we had the only kids on the trail under 15 and it was a pretty intense hike for all of us. (Except David, he is in great shape and can do anything) 

Glymur pouring down

Jon's picture of a small waterfall

Our family on a cliff edge before the waterfall

Of course in going back we still had the same challenges to face. The steep parts were harder to go down than up because they were muddy and very slippery. Thank goodness for the rope! Crossing the log was easier for everyone else but once again I almost slipped and fell in. The cave remained super cool though and the kids got to clamber through an even smaller hole to get through it.

James surveys the river

Crossing the river again

Will is ready to go back into the cave

The cave from the other side. The boys went through the small hole

From the cave to the car was the hardest part for me since all the excitement was gone and I was just exhausted. Christian felt the same way and James carried him for quite a bit of the walk out. Until he felt better and then he ran the rest of the way. I love the energy of kids. David was amazing. Not only did he carry two backpacks out (his and mine) but he also ran after the kids so they wouldn't get too far ahead. I am so thankful for him!

A small mountain stream

David strikes a pose

Will and David pose majestically

Jon's underwater selfie

We were all tired from the hike and it was time to head home. But on the way back we had to stop at a couple places that we had passed by that morning. The first was Thingvellir National Park where we had some ice cream and wandered around. The park is where the Icelanders general assembly met for hundreds of years. It is also a place between continents. The North American plate and the Eurasion plate are drifting away from each other here and the land is slowly sinking as they move apart.

Christian made us stop here so he could get a picture

Christian's picture

One of the gorges where the plates are moving apart

Jon running at Thingvelir

View at Thingvellir

We had hoped to find another waterfall on our drive back but we missed it and were too tired to turn around. We still took the scenic route home though and were rewarded with the sight of a horses being moved to a new pasture. About 40 of them came right down the road with about 20 riders. It was a beautiful sight.

Horse roundup

Moving the horses

The roads in Iceland all have a top speed limit of 55 (90 kph) on the paved roads and 45 (80 kph) on the dirt ones. I thought I'd be frustrated by the slow speeds but they are right for these narrow and twisty roads. Even when the road looks clear and straight there are often little hills that hide oncoming traffic. There are a lot of one way bridges here, even on main roads. Most people stop but occasionally you get an idiot who zooms right over. Aside from the horses we haven't met many animals in the road although we did see a sheep family crossing the road. The driving here is definitely adventurous. 

On an empty typical Icelandic road

Will runs down the road

Field of sheep. If you fence it they will graze.

Mama sheep with her lambs

As I was driving I went over a bumpy part of the road. James made a comment about not going over so many bumps and Jon pipped up with "She can do whatever she wants. She's an American." And Will chimed in, "Yeah, live free or die."

David and Christian in the car

Jon's picture of the view from his window

Horses and their foals. I've never been so aware of spring!

My one regret is not going on a horse riding tour.

Now we are home and happily tired. Today was warm and sunny and my arms are painfully sunburned but thankfully the kids are OK. I didn't think to bring sunscreen or aloe to Iceland! The kids are finishing a movie and are off to bed and it is time for me to go too. We only have a few days left and already I want to plan our next trip here. This is a wonderful country.

Goodnight!